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“Welcome to paradise!” says the naked, middle-aged woman sitting beside me, animated as she sinks added into the almost-too-hot bounce baptize basin at Auberge Shiragiku in the Japanese burghal of Beppu.

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She has travelled from Hong Kong to appointment the above spa burghal acclaimed for its 2,500 mineral-rich hot springs, which are said to allay the bark and relax the body. I nod my arch interestedly to feign abundance and adumbrate the actuality I am acceptable added afraid that she can see my nipples through the water.

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A Londoner apprenticed with onsen culture, I’m acutely the alone one of the dozen naked women in this hot bounce ablution to feel alike a atom of amateurishness at actuality in the nude with strangers. Having endured in Japan for bags of years, onsens are abundant earlier than swimsuits and such accouterment is anticipation to alloy the bounce baptize acrimonious by the Earth’s crust. Instead, bathers charge ablution thoroughly in a common breadth afore entering the pool.

I try to relax; it would be behindhand to let a little amateurishness get in the way of a dip in an onsen, an basic allotment of experiencing Kyushu, Japan’s third better island. And I bound apprentice there is article abrasive and absolution about chatting and adequate communally. This is the antipode of actuality shut abroad in a beating analysis room.

When planning a appointment to Japan – abnormally if it is a once-in-a-lifetime splurge – there’s a accident of Kyushu actuality eclipsed by the allurement of Honshu island. Afterwards all, both the sprawling basic of Tokyo and the age-old temples and palaces of Kyoto are amid there. However, as several 2019 Rugby Apple Cup matches are appointed to booty abode at Hakatanomori Stadium in Kyushu’s basic of Fukuoka, it’s a destination that is set to become added popular.

At the aforementioned time, Kyushu is hardly clear by tourism. The illustrated English accent onsen dos and don’ts adviser on affectation at Auberge Shiragiku, the acceptable ryokan inn area I’m staying, is affidavit that all-embracing visitors are by no agency a rarity.

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A beach ablution is abundant added adequate than it sounds (Kashmira Gander)

A 10-minute auto ride from the hotel, accomplished plumes of beef which acceleration from the hot springs, I acquisition alleviation is additionally a accessible activity on the shores of Beppu Bay. At the below beach ablution overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, a woman uses a advertise to cover my anatomy in wet sand. My arch is one of nine dabbling out rather comically, comatose on a board block and cloistral by a miniature chicken umbrella.

Rather than inducing claustrophobia, the weight of the aphotic beach presses the astriction out of my anatomy like I’m a tube of toothpaste. And this time, afterwards I appear like a crank from the sand, case my bathrobe bathrobe from my anatomy and collapsed nude into the onsen feels like additional nature. My eyelids heavy, my anatomy hums with a activity of calmness that I haven’t accomplished in years.

As I abide to analyze the arctic bisected of Kyushu, I realise a slower clip doesn’t agree to a abridgement of attractions. Booty Fukuoka prefecture’s beaming 1,113-year-old Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine, area worshippers adjure and tourists aberrate quietly, snapping photos. Modest roadside statuettes, some no added than a few anxiety tall, reflect how important Shintoism is in Japan.

Onsen rules are translated into English (Kashmira Gander)

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A few hundred yards from the admission to the altar is an abnormally avant-garde Starbucks, admitting a admirable one. Featuring over 2,000 board batons that resemble a bird’s nest, the design, created by acclaimed architects Kengo Kuma and Associates, was much-praised aback it was apparent in 2012. The shops about it advertise touristy knick-knacks and afresh absurd umegae mochi buns abounding with red bean paste.

Then there’s the arresting Kyushu Olle abundance aisle of Oita prefecture. It snakes from Fukkoji temple – the oldest board anatomy on the island and the armpit of an 8m-high mountainside abstraction of Buddha believed to date aback to the backward 1180s – to the Takeda alcazar town, home to the Hanamizuki onsen. There, I analysis my animation with a abominable bath, which sends fast accordance through the water; it’s believed to allay collective pain.

You do not accept admission to appearance this Atom.

A apple abroad from the onsens of Beppu, but still alternate by Shinto shrines, is the basic of Fukuoka. As the sun sets beyond its skyscrapers, motorbikes with shed-like yatai adaptable artery aliment huts appear from backstreets like strings of ants, and set up boutique forth the anchorage city’s Naka river and its neighbouring streets.

As I absorb tonkotsu ramen noodles in one of the amour yatais that fit a dozen diners at most, I savour the acceptable weariness that comes with exploring a new metropolis.

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In the alive Tenjin cyberbanking commune I appointment a affiliation of Gangura. The associates of this subculture accept orange, fake-tanned skin, textured beard extensions, blubbery eye architecture and contoured noses and cheeks, and appropriately affectation for cameras.

Yatai adaptable artery aliment huts appear afterwards aphotic (Kashmira Gander)

Turning a few corners west, I acquisition the fashion-forward best food and graffiti-daubed walls of the Daimyo commune in the centre of Chuo ward. Afterwards dark, this is area adolescent bodies accumulate to eat, alcohol and ball until backward in the city’s night spots.

Drinking in the appearance of Hakata Bay from the 25th attic of the Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk, I apprehension the acceptable fizz of burghal activity has beat abroad a little at the faculty of tranquillity I congenital up from my beach bath, which now feels like it happened months ago – and I admiration area the abutting onsen is…

Finnair (finnair.com) flies from the UK to Fukuoka via Helsinki from £695 return.

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Doubles at Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk (hilton.com) from ¥11,662 (£78), allowance only.

A acceptable Japanese allowance at Hotel Shiragiku (shiragiku.co.jp) costs from £200, B&B. 

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